Ackie Monitor Care Sheet (Beginner)

Ackie Monitor Care Sheet (Beginner)

Varanus acanthurus

Overview

Ackie monitors, also known as spiny-tailed monitors, are small, hardy lizards from arid and semi-arid regions of northern Australia. Inquisitive and active, they make excellent display animals and can become quite tame with regular interaction. 

Quick Facts

  • Scientific Name: Varanus acanthurus
  • Size: 60–70 cm total length (tail ≈ two-thirds)
  • Lifespan: 15–20 years in captivity
  • Temperament: Active, curious, generally tolerant of handling
  • Diet: Primarily insectivorous
  • Activity: Diurnal

Enclosure Setup

Enclosure Size

Minimum 120×60×60 cm for a single adult; bigger is better. Provide floor space for digging and strong basking areas. Front-opening glass or melamine vivariums work well.

Heating & Lighting

  • Basking: 50–60 °C (very hot and essential for digestion)
  • Warm end ambient: ~35 °C
  • Cool end: 25–28 °C (30 °C ish during the day over summer isn't a problem)
  • Night: 20–22 °C
  • UVB: High-output (T5 HO/10.0) for 10–12 hours daily
  • Use thermostats and reliable digital thermometers/IR gun to verify temps.
Pro Tip: Most health issues trace back to insufficient basking temps — verify the surface temperature at the basking rock, not just air temp.

Substrate

There's a couple of different options:

A deep, diggable mix (e.g., sand or a 50:50 mix of washed sand and soil). Provide 20–30 cm depth so tunnels hold. Lightly moisten lower layers to reduce collapse while keeping the surface dry.

Personally, I prefer the following. A thin 5cm layer of sand throughout the enclosure, followed by a large tub of damp sand on one side of the enclosure. A good example of size is a 27L Sistema tub. Cut a small hole in the lid just big enough for your ackie to get through, too big and your tub will dry out more frequently. 

This setup keeps cleaning easy and is more versatile, as not all enclosures have the ability for a deep substrate layer. Ensure your tub is filled right to the brim and the sand is kept damp. 

Hides & Decor

Multiple hides across the temperature gradient, flat basking rocks, branches, hollows, and other décor. I like to add in gum tree branches or other new items here and there for added enrichment. 

Humidity

Generally keep the enclosure as dry as possible, while providing a damp hide or dig box as mentioned in the 'Substrate' section above.

Feeding

A varied insect diet with some supplementation:

  • Staples: crickets, woodies, dubia roaches, locusts
  • Occasional: boiled egg, cooked lean meat, dog food, or pinky/fuzzy mice (treat only)
  • Supplements: calcium powder; optional - multivitamin 1-2× weekly
  • Juveniles: feed every 1-2 days; Adults: 2-3 times per week (adjust to body condition).

Maintenance Checklist

  • Fresh water daily
  • Spot-clean waste daily; deep clean as needed
  • Verify basking surface and gradients regularly. Keep in mind how they might vary during seasonal changes.
  • Replace UVB per manufacturer instructions (typically 6–12 months)
  • Monitor sheds and overall body condition. Keep an eye on toes and tail tips for stuck shed.

Handling & Behaviour

Approach calmly and support the body; avoid grabbing from above. With gentle, regular interaction, Ackies often become confident and enjoy supervised exploration.

Common Issues

  • Lethargy: Often due to low basking temperature
  • Retained shed: Improve access to a moist hide or sand box
  • Poor appetite: Re-check temperatures; consider parasites if persistent. Ackies typically have a very ferocious appetite, so if temperatures and correct, and your ackie isn't eating, consult a veterinary professional.  

Recommended Feeding Products

Reptifauna supplies some suitable feeders for Ackie monitors:

  • Dubia roaches (good staple)
  • Frozen pinky and fuzzy mice (occasional adult treat)
  • Other feeders include crickets, woodies, locusts.

It's important to provide a balanced, varied diet.

Final Notes

Ackies are hardy, engaging monitors that thrive in captivity. Ensure you provide the essential high basking temperature, damp sand box, and plenty of hollows/decor.

*Please note, the information provided is based on personal experience, and is not professional veterinary advice. For professional advice, please seek out your nearest reptile specialist vet.

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